Mayhem, who had been away on a trip, has returned...
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This is a beach break called Strands.
It avoids the southerly wind and is hollow, with wave quality similar to that of Niijima when the waves are good.
Mayhem, who had been away on a trip, is back...
As a guest of Kolohe,
From Mayhem on a Mentawai board trip in Indonesia
I received an email saying that I would be returning home earlier than planned.
I was wondering why,
Apparently he cut his head on a fin and the boat captain had to give him 18 stitches.
Apparently, he was the only one to return home because he couldn't surf for a week until the stitches were removed.
If you get injured on a board trip, you may or may not stay on the board depending on the remaining schedule.
He had to choose whether to return home or not, and Mayhem chose to return home.
Even if you are going back to your home country alone, you will need to travel from Mentawai to San Clemente.
It took three days, so it must have been quite a challenge.
We returned to Padang Port by boat, not by ship, and took 20 hours, connecting by boat, car, and plane.
I also stayed overnight in a small hotel room at Singapore airport, and spent a few hours at Narita airport.
Apparently he was waiting for a plane.
It's before summer and we have a lot of board orders,
Rather than being on a board and not being able to surf for a week.
It seems he chose to come back early and get in shape.
So Nishii captures Mayhem and immediately sets off for a meeting.
He also gave us a detailed explanation of the SUB-DRIVER, so
I will introduce it in tomorrow's blog.